At 20000 km service of my RE Himalayan, I decided to change the engine oil myself and use the highly praised Motul 15W 50 Semi synthetic engine oil. After 4000 kms of riding, here’s my honest opinion of the oil. Spoilers – It’s good, not great.
Pros of Motul 15W 50 Semi Synthetic Engine Oil
There are 2 main pros I noticed with Motul 15W 50 Semi Synthetic Engine oil compared to the RE’s liquid gun engine oil.
1. Better engine heat management
The engine heat noticeably reduced with Motul’s engine oil. I rode the same stretch in Bangalore’s bumper to bumper traffic with the stock oil and Motul’s oil while wearing shorts.
The engine heat in traffic reduced to a point where it was not severely uncomfortable anymore but manageable. It’s not something very significant but helpful in daily commute.
2. Easier gear shifts
The usual clunky and hard gear shifts became slicker and smoother with Motul’s oil. Again it doesn’t make a world of a difference but it’s definitely noticeable and enjoyable. Anything that reduces the Himalayan’s notoriously difficult gear shifts are a welcome.
Cons of Motul 15W 50 Semi Synthetic Engine Oil
Now here are 2 main cons I thought of Motul 15W 50 Semi Synthetic Engine oil compared to the RE’s liquid gun engine oil.
1. Lower oil life
RE’s liquid gun performs well upto 7000 km after which the engine starts showing signs of burnt out oil. With Motul, it starts at 4000 km. Even though it outperforms the liquid gun, it wears faster.
2. Higher cost
Oil change with Liquid gun costs around 800 rs at the service center. Motul comes in 1L bottles of which each costs near to 600 rs and you’ll need 2 bottles at once.
Conclusion
Motul 15W 50 semi synthetic oil is better than RE Liquid in terms of engine cooling and gear shifts. It lacks the life of Liquid gun oil. There’s no other added benefits in performance or maintenance.
If you are someone who changes oil every 5000 km and is willing to spend few extra bucks, go for the Motul. If you want the maximum life out of the oil and don’t care about the better performance, stick to the Liquid gun oil.
As for me, I’d go with Motul from now on. Watch the video review below.
Watch and learn how to change the engine oil of the RE Himalayan below
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Is Motul 5100 15w50 fully synthetic?
Motul 15w 50 5100 engine oil is semi synthetic.
How long does Motul oil last?
Motul 15w 50 5100 engine oil lasts around 4000 Kms in the RE Himalayan.
Which engine oil is used in Royal Enfield?
15W 50 Semi synthetic engine oils are recommended for most of the Royal Enfield motorcycles including the Himalayan.
Can we use 20w50 instead of 15w50?
Yes you can use 20w 50 instead of 15w50 but it’s better to follow the company recommended grade for better life of the engine.
Can I use 15w40 instead of 15w50?
It’s ideal not to use 15W 40 in place of 15W 50 as the former is not good for high performance or high heat generating engines as it is less viscous than the latter.
Not all advertised fancy motorcycle accessories or mods in the market make life easier on two wheels. Along with a collection of really good motorcycle accessories I’ve used, I’ve had a few ones that failed and didn’t serve the purpose.
1. Pro spec EZ clutch cable
EZ clutch by Pros spec is advertised as a means to reduce the clutch lever action by more than 50%. Yes it reduces the clutch action but it comes at a great cost of not completely engaging / disengaging the clutch. It makes gear shifts harder, revs up the engine too much and a bit of power is lost. This is not just me but many Himalayan owners have testified the same and went back to the stock cable.
Pro spec makes high quality products and I myself use their EZ cruz, EZ ride and EZ tag products and they serve their purpose very well. Somehow the EZ clutch seems to miss the mark at what it promises.
2. Throttle rest
The throttle rest has never worked for me. I’ve tried 3 different company’s and all of them failed. The plastic is very brittle and breaks with very little force. It’s difficult to install on the handle without the risk of breaking it. The grip isn’t great to hold your palm’s weight too.
3. Formula X puncture sealant
I fell for all the advertisements and demo videos on youtube for Formula X tyre puncture sealant. To my amusement, I found a note with a long list of ‘ideal conditions’ for it to work. Nevertheless I installed and it failed on me at Pang where there was no puncture repair shop, no network coverage and little oxygen at 15000 feet above sea level!
All the sealant leaked through a very small nail puncture and it failed to seal the puncture. It made fixing the puncture difficult as we had to wash the entire tyre and tube off the sealant. I’ve come across many folks who had similar experiences with such sealants.
4. Stock crash guard of RE Himalayan
Stock crash guard of RE Himalayan is in my opinion the softest piece of metal after the handle bar. It bends on the softest impacts and on the strong ones, it doesn’t do anything to protect your motorcycle.
Get a 3 point mounting after market crash guard. The one I use can be found here along with all the accessories that I use on my RE Himalayan.
5. ResQ tec air pump
The air pumps that operate on battery power seem to give up after one or two times of use for many people. My ResQ tec air pump gave up on the second use in Ladakh!. I had to resort to a trusty old foot pump that did the job. In my opinion, it’s better to carry a foot pump rather than trusting these cheap battery operated pumps.
Check out the summarised video of motorcycle accessories that failed, below
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Can you repair a puncture after using tyre sealant?
Puncture sealants work by sealing the puncture hole almost immediately. You cannot repair a non sealed hole with the tyre sealant.
What is the disadvantage of tire sealant?
Puncture sealants only seals small puncture holes in most depended areas of tire in ideal conditions mentioned by the manufacturer. Most of the time, it doesn’t work.
What’s the best alternative to stock crash guard in RE Himalayan?
HDT customs crash guard is the best alternative. It’s a lot sturdier than the stock crash guard of Himalayan and has a 3 point attachment.
Majority of the motorcycle owners never refer the user manual. It remains untouched in some cupboard in most of the households.
I’ve realised in a very hard way that user manuals are great help in learning basic motorcycle repairs and solving a majority of issues you come across in day to day life and during your long distance journeys.
I’ll suggest 5 basic motorcycle repairs that you must know before you venture out for any long distance highway touring or off-road sessions for those of you who don’t have the time and patience to go through the entire manual of the motorcycle.
1. Wheel removal and puncture repair
One small puncture can bring your trip to a standstill especially for those with tube tyres. I suffered a great deal in Pang at an altitude of 15000 feet and it took me 3 hours with the help of a local to fix it. I wish I knew prior.
You must go through the manual and practice removing and attaching your front and rear wheels at least once to get an idea in case of an emergency. Always carry a puncture kit with you and an inflator if possible.
2. Chain cleaning and lubrication
Drive chain will require cleaning and lubrication every 500 kms if not earlier when you are riding on off road terrain. Refer to the manual for a detailed explanation.
3. Clutch and brake lever free play adjustment & clutch wire and brake pad replacement
Clutch lever free play tends to become tight or loose as you drive more kms. So is the case with brake pads. You need to replace the break pads frequently when you are in for a long haul.
In case the clutch wire snaps, you’ll need to learn to replace and route the wire properly, all of which are explained in the manual.
4. Headlamp, fuse and spark plug replacement
You should carry a spare and you need to know how to replace them in case your headlight or any of the fuse blows off or if there’s something wrong with the spark plug. All these skills can come in handy not only in trips but also in saving a trip to the service centre.
5. Engine oil change
Knowing how to replace the engine oil is not a must as modern motorcycles don’t have oil leakage and require oil change less frequently. Knowing how to change the engine oil can help you skip periodic service centre visits. This skill will come in handy during trips that exceed the distance before the oil change.
To know how to change the engine oil of RE Himalayan, watch this video –
Watch the entire 5 Basic motorcycle repairs you must know before your Ladakh trip summed up in a video here –
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What is the most important maintenance on a motorcycle?
Periodically checking the tyre pressure, oil levels and chain lubrication are the most important maintenance on a motorcycle.
How often should you change oil on motorcycle?
Engine oil changing interval varies from motorcycle to motorcycle. On average, it’s better to change engine oil every 7000 – 10000 Kms. Refer to your service manual for details.
Is WD 40 good for motorcycle?
WD 40 is an excellent product which can be used on a motorcycle for a wide variety of purposes like chain cleaning, lubing pivoting parts and keeping off rust from exposed metal parts and cables.
How often should you change air filter on motorcycle?
If the air filter is periodically cleaned and maintained well, it’ll need replacement every 20000 kms only. Refer your service manual for your bike’s specific intervals.
What all items should be included in a tube puncture kit?
Rubber patches, rubber glue, sand paper, tube valves and a tyre wrench should be present in a tube puncture kit.
There isn’t a perfect itinerary for a bike trip to Ladakh and Kashmir that fits everyone’s need. Here’s the itinerary that worked out for me and hopefully you find a point or two to help you in shaping a perfect itinerary for yourself.
Itinerary can change at any point of the trip as the whole trip depends on your health, vehicle’s condition and weather. Even then it’s always better to have a plan in mind beforehand. This is the itinerary I followed on my bike trip to Ladakh and Kashmir in August 2021.
Check out the entire trip here
When to go to Ladakh & Kashmir?
The ideal time to visit Ladakh would be from end of May to mid September. Anytime later or before would be too cold for comfort and many places would be inaccessible due to heavy snowfall.
How to go to Ladakh & Kashmir?
There are many ways in which you could visit Ladakh. Flights to Ladakh followed by renting a motorcycle or car is the most common way of doing it.
Since I don’t have first hand information on such methods, this post would be directed towards motorcyclists / riders looking to travel to Ladakh on their motorcycles.
Where all to go in Ladakh & Kashmir?
Fitting all the tourist spots in a short period of time is a near to impossible task. There are a few places that you must include to have a good trip to Ladakh. I have included it in the following itinerary.
Itinerary of my bike trip to Ladakh & Kashmir
Day 1 – Bangalore to Hyderabad
Day 2 – Hyderabad to Nagpur
Day 3 – Nagpur to Jhansi
Day 4 – Jhansi to Delhi
Day 5 – Delhi to Manali
Day 6 – Rest day in Manali. Serviced my bike too.
Day 7 – Manali to Pang
Day 8 – Pang to Leh
Day 9 & 10 – Rest days in Leh to acclimatise. Got my bike serviced too.
Day 11 – Leh to Hunder via Khardung La
Day 12 – Visit to Turtuk (highly recommended)
Day 13 – Hunder to Pangong Tso
Day 14 – Pangong Tso to Leh
Day 15 – Leh to Drass
Day 16 – Drass to Srinagar (highly recommended to camp a day at Sonmarg)
Day 17 – Srinagar to Amristar
Day 18 – Amristar to Delhi
Day 19, 20 & 21- Delhi to Bangalore by train along with bike
First, make a list of all the tourists destinations in Ladakh you would like to visit. Make a detailed itinerary which includes enough rest days and buffer days. Follow the page above for a detailed itinerary of a bike trip to Ladakh.
Which month is best for Ladakh by bike?
The ideal time to visit Ladakh would be from end of May to mid September. Anytime later or before would be too cold for comfort and many places would be inaccessible due to heavy snowfall.
How can I prepare my body for Leh?
Spend 24-48 hours at the lowest point of your planned ascend to acclimatise. Do not ascend more than 4000 ft per day. Drink lots of water, eat healthy and sleep well. To know more about AMS, go here – https://bulletstrings.com/acute-mountain-sickness/
Packing at the last moment for a Ladakh trip on your motorcycle can be overwhelming and often makes you miss many of the important items. Here’s an easy checklist of what things to carry for your trip to Ladakh on your bike.
Winter clothes, riding gear, medicines, packed food, toiletries, camping equipment, electronics and bike tools are some of the things you should pack for your Ladakh bike trip. For a detailed checklist, download the pdf here – Ladakh Bike Trip Checklist.
What all is needed for Ladakh trip?
Basic winter wear, medicines, packed food items, toiletries and camping equipments are needed for a Ladakh trip. For a detailed checklist, see this.
How much money is required for a bike trip to Ladakh?
Diamox or Acetazolamide is a drug that prevents fluid accumulation and helps in acclimatising faster. 250mg taken 12 to 24 hours prior to ascend and continued for 2 days twice daily after the ascend is the recommended adult dosage. Read more about AMS here – https://bulletstrings.com/acute-mountain-sickness/
Do we need oxygen in Leh Ladakh?
Oxygen supplementation should be given till you descend or till you reach a medical facility if you are experiencing severe symptoms of AMS, HAPE or HACE. Read more about it here – https://bulletstrings.com/acute-mountain-sickness/
Many riders in India dream about a Ladakh trip on their motorcycle. The first step to realising your dream is to budget the preparation and ride.
This article will cover Ladakh bike trip budget for both beginner riders who don’t have riding gear to seasoned ones with all the gears for the dream trip on their to motorcycle.
Preparation cost of a bike trip to Ladakh
This section will include all the cost to prepare your motorcycle and you for the entire trip.
Personal gear
Riding gear
For someone who’s looking to start fresh, a package of basic riding gears would cost around 22k INR. Even though this amount seems a lot, trust me, it’ll serve many years to come through the toughest of conditions. For a detailed review of all my riding gears, check this article now.
Vlogging equipment
Having a basic vlogging rig can help your memories last longer. A basic action camera with a helmet mounting kit is enough to get you started. You can buy action cameras starting from as low as 6000 INR.
Make sure you carry adequate storage based on the amount of footage you plan to shoot. Keep an SD card or two extra if needed or if you carry a HDD and laptop, back up the data every day. 64gb SD cards would cost around 1500 INR. For a detailed review of my vlogging setup, check out this article.
Camping equipment
Camping is a must in Ladakh. Pitching your own tent gives you a feel like no other even though you have option to stay in all the major tourists spots in readily available camps. Moreover, the readily available tent stay is most of the times expensive than a premium Oyo room.
Get a basic 2/3 person tent from Decathlon for 2.5 – 3k INR so that you can keep your luggage as well.
A LPG canister or a portable cylinder will be necessary. A 5L cylinder is more than enough for a month’s cooking and it’d cost around 700 INR with the burner.
Get a sleeping bag for 1000 INR from Leh or Manali. A camping light worth 250 INR and powerbank will come in handy. Camping cookware kit is available in decathlon starting from as low as 1000 INR but I’d suggest you carry the smallest of home cookware you have to save money.
Packaged food items
Protein bars are life savers. Get a minimum of 10 to 20 protein bars. If you are on a budget, you can make them and freeze it. Get basic items like Oats or noodles which you can cook on the go. Bread, pickles and jams are other options. Together it shouldn’t cost you more than 2000 INR
Medicines & first aid kit
Carry few ORS sachet, diamox tablets, regular medications and tablets for common ailments like cold, upset stomach and fever, few bandages, savlon and a cotton roll. Together it shouldn’t cost you more than 1000 INR
Winter clothes
It gets close to zero at some parts of Ladakh even in the summers. It’s better to carry a winter jacket or thermal wear. Best option is to get it in Manali or Leh local market. You can get a decent winter jacket and pants for less than 1000 INR. A pair of Winter gloves and socks shouldn’t cost more than 250 INR each.
Luggage organiser
Luggage organiser is a game changer when it comes to organising your luggage. Get one from Amazon for approx 300 INR and you can thank me later.
Toiletries
Sunscreen, moisturiser and lip balm are a must when travelling to cold and dry terrains. Buy the smallest packets of these and it shouldn’t cost you more than 1000 INR.
Motorcycle gear
Jerry can
Ladakh region has enough fuel pumps en route major tourists spots but it’s always safe to carry extra fuel for motorcycles with mileage less than 30 kmpl. There’ll be like 1 fuel station for a 100km stretch and if that’s closed for some reason, you are screwed.
A 5L Jerry can with mount costs 2500 INR. Don’t buy cheap cans. It’s not safe to carry petrol at high speeds and high altitudes in them.
Fog lamps
It’s never recommended to drive past sunset but if you find yourself in a inevitable situation, fog lamps will come in useful. A pair of decent fog lamps would cost around 2500 INR.
Luggage
A basic tank bag, saddle or tail bag, a backpack and few bungee cords are bare minimum to carry luggage. I’ve reviewed my entire luggage system in this article and you can check that out for reference. A decent set of luggage system would cost around 9000 INR.
Spare parts
Here’s a list of must carry spare parts for your motorcycle
Tyre tubes – Approx 450 INR each for tube tyres
Puncture kit which includes glue, sandpaper and seals – 150 INR
Tyre inflator – get one from Amazon for 1000 INR
Spanner and Allen key set – get it from Amazon for approx 500 INR
Chain cleaner and lube – Motul C1 C2 combo from Amazon costs around 450 INR
Microfibre towel from decathlon which costs 100 INR
Colin glass cleaner spray for visors and lamps – INR
Phone / GPS mount with charger
Phone mount with USB charger is a must have for navigation and for charging your devices on the go. A generic one would cost around 250 INR
Ride Cost of a bike trip to Ladakh
Fuel
I travelled a total of 5200 Km over a span of 19 days. RE Himalayan gave an average fuel economy of 30 kmpl. Petrol cost was 115 INR on average. A total of 20000 Rs was spent on petrol.
Accommodation
I stayed mostly in hostels and twin sharing rooms. On an average, I spent 500 Rs per night for stay. 3 days I camped in my tent and 3 days in train. So I spent a total of 16 days staying in hotels and spent around 8000 Rs in accommodation.
Food
Food was perhaps the most unpredictable expense. I resorted to cooking breakfast and dinner whenever possible but what took me by surprise was the expensive meals in the Ladakh region. A plate of momos or maggi will cost more than 200 INR in the inner line region of Ladakh.
On average, I’d have spent 600 INR per day for food. For 21 days that’d be around 12500 INR. I filled my 4 bottles usually from petrol pumps and hotels so I never paid for drinking water.
Train ticket
In the last leg of my journey, I shipped my RE Himalayan via train and travelled home in the same train. Train ticket cost me 800 INR and 5750 INR for bike parcel.
Miscellaneous
These expenses include –
Permits – 400 INR
Postpaid sim – 450 INR
Laundry service in Leh – 150 INR
Motorcycle service and washing in Manali and Leh – 1500 INR
Sightseeing tickets – 250 INR
Total Cost
For a beginner rider without any gear looking to travel to Ladakh on their motorcycle, it’d cost around 110000 INR. Keep in mind that the riding, luggage and camera gear that you invest in will serve the purpose for many years to come.
For a seasoned rider with most of the riding gears, it’d cost around 80000 INR. I hope this Ladakh bike trip budget article was helpful in getting you a step closer to your dream ride to Ladakh.
To see the entire Ladakh bike trip budget article in a video format, check the link below. While you are there, don’t forget to subscribe.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
How much does a Ladakh bike trip cost?
For a beginner rider without any gear looking to travel to Ladakh on their motorcycle, it’d cost around 110000 INR. Keep in mind that the riding, luggage and camera gear that you invest in will serve the purpose for many years to come.
For a seasoned rider with most of the riding gears, it’d cost around 80000 INR. I hope this Ladakh bike trip budget article was helpful in getting you a step closer to your dream ride to Ladakh.
How can I go to Ladakh on low budget?
Few ways to cut down cost on your Ladakh trip are use public transport, pitch your own tent, cook your own food as far as possible and stay in hostels / dorms.
How many days are sufficient for Leh Ladakh bike trip?
Most of the areas in Ladakh do not have cell reception. At places where you have cell reception, the internet speeds are slow. Leh is the main city where you have the best Internet and most hotels have WiFi. The only other place I found good cell reception is Hunder.
Is the food expensive in Ladakh?
Food in general tends to be expensive in the Ladakh region, For instance a plate of veg momos can cost you 150 – 200 Rs. So carry your own food and snacks if you are on a tight budget.
Being a doctor even though I knew in theory what Acute mountain sickness or AMS is, I never realised its seriousness until I fell victim to it in my trip to Ladakh. So here’s my story and info on AMS that you need to know before you head out to Ladakh.
My experience with Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
On the 7th day of my Ladakh trip (18th August 2021), I started my journey from Manali and headed to Pang. On the Leh – Manali highway, there’s a section called the Gata Loops which consists of 21 hair pin bends. It’s a steep ascend from 11000 feet to 15000 feet above sea level once you reach the top.
Already I had ascended from 8000 feet in Manali to 11000 feet at the start of Gata Loops. I made it to the top at around 1pm. Half way through , I started having headache, giddiness, fatigue and breathlessness. Little did I realise that I was having symptoms of AMS!
A little further, I found a group of riders sitting by the roadside. I stopped by them and asked why they were sitting in the middle of nowhere. They said they were having symptoms of AMS. Great! I got company. So we all waited for half hour. We had diamox tablets and since I had breathlessness, I took a lasix tablet as well. After we felt a little better, we continued riding.
We reached Pang around 5pm. I found a large group of riders in Pang who stopped there for refreshments before they headed to the next village. Initially I thought I’ll join them but my condition grew worse as time went past.
I became so breathless, exhausted and nauseous to a point where I couldn’t carry my own luggage for a few steps. The owner of a noodle stall took me to his private tent and helped me unload the luggage.
As the sun set, I could barely breathe, barely sit up and barely concentrate. With all my riding gear still on except for the helmet, I lied down in the tent. My whole life flashed in front of my eyes when I thought I was dying. I cried tears of joy being proud that I made it this far. And then I passed out.
I woke up at 2am with severe toe pain. By then breathlessness had reduced and I had a new problem of half frozen toes. Temperatures had dropped to 3 degree celcius that night. Anyway long story short, I survived to tell the story.
Nobody has to go through what I went through if you take the necessary steps to prevent and treat AMS and that’s what I’m going to share. If you want to see the video of me struggling to breathe, go check this out. https://youtu.be/2mHOStTaWb8
What is Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS?
Acute mountain sickness or AMS is a group of symptoms you are likely to experience at an altitude above 8000 feet from sea level due to decreased levels of oxygen pressure. When body fails to acclimatise, it starts showing symptoms of AMS
Symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness
Common symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS includes headache, dizziness, fatigue, exhaustion, blurring of vision, lack of concentration, nausea, abdominal cramps and diarrhoea. AMS progresses to High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) both of which are fatal when left untreated.
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE)
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema is when AMS progresses to breathing difficulty and chest heaviness, where the fluid in your body seeps to the lung due to low oxygen pressure in the atmosphere and you drown in your own fluid. If not treated at this stage, HAPE is life threatening. Note that HAPE gets worse at night.
High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)
High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) is when you develop confusion, extreme lethargy, disorientation and hallucination, where the fluid accumulates in the brain causing swelling of the brain and eventually compression of the brain in the tight skull compartment. HACE also is life threatening and if not treated immediately can lead to coma and death.
Why do you develop AMS?
The human body acclimatises to high altitudes by making necessary adjustments in lung, heart, circulation and other parameters to make oxygen available to the body, but takes time to do so. When you ascend to levels more than which body can acclimatise in a day or two, different organ systems starts to fail due to the lack of enough oxygen in the blood stream.
Gastrointestinal symptoms like nausea and diarrhoea are due to indigestion because of less oxygen available to digest food. HAPE and HACE develop due to less oxygen pressure needed to keep the body fluid in their respective spaces.
How to prevent Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS?
1. Acclimatise
Check the elevation of the place you are headed to. If it’s above 8000 feet from sea level, stay at the lowest point before the ascend for at least a period of 24 to 48 hours to acclimatise.
Subsequently, it’s ideal to keep your ascend to 2000 feet per day from baseline and not more than 4000 feet if you are on a tight schedule. Your body will find it difficult to cope up with ascends more than 4000 feet per 24 hours.
2. Hydrate
Drink at least 2 to 4 Litres of water every day. How hydration helps to keep the fluid pressures intact in high altitudes is a topic of discussion beyond the scope of this post. Yes, toilets are not easily available along the Ladakh routes but that shouldn’t stop you from hydrating well.
3. Diamox
Diamox or Acetazolamide is a drug that prevents fluid accumulation and helps in acclimatising faster. 250mg taken 12 to 24 hours prior to ascend and continued for 2 days twice daily after the ascend is the recommended adult dosage.
Diamox is ideal for folks who’ve had AMS previously as the second episode can be more severe. Do consult a doctor before the trip itself to know the dosage according to your body weight
How to treat Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS?
1. Stop and descend!
If you experience AMS even after taking all the necessary precautions, the first thing to do is STOP! Stop ascending for the day or at least for a few hours and drink as much water as you can. If it’s getting worse, decent as soon as possible till you fell better, to a village or town below and stay for 24 to 48 hours to get acclimatised. Descending to a lower altitude is the main treatment in worsening AMS.
2. Treatment protocol
Consult a doctor prior to your trip and have a treatment protocol for AMS beforehand. Diamox 250mg twice a day helps in relieving symptoms and acclimatising faster. Paracetamol 650mg or Aspirin for headaches.
How to treat High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE)
When AMS progresses to HAPE, first thing to do is to descend to an altitude more than 2000 feet or until symptoms get better. Take supplemental oxygen till you descend.
If you don’t have access to oxygen, seek help of the army personnel. They are angels to civilians. You can carry portable oxygen cylinders in case you’ve experienced AMS before or you have no option but to ascend more than 4000 feet in 24 hours.
Nifedipine helps in treating HAPE. It’s not recommended to take nifedipine without a doctor’s advice as it can lead to hypotension and it’s own complications.
How to treat High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)
Before treating, first thing is to recognise the symptoms. HACE cannot be recognised by you because you’ll be in altered sensorium. You’ll need to educate your travel companions to detect signs and symptoms of HACE so it can be caught early.
Even in HACE, the mainstay of treatment is to descend to a lower altitude as soon as possible, ideally more than 2000 feet or until symptoms get better. Oxygen supplementation should be given till you descend or till you reach a medical facility.
Dexamethasone helps in decreasing swelling in the brain. It should be administered only with a doctor’s advice. If not treated immediately, HACE results in death within hours to onset.
Does being fit help in prevent Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS?
People often misunderstand AMS to be a sickness of the less fit and start training in gym or engage in some sports in preparation for their journey to Ladakh. Although being fit is ideal for overall health, sadly fitness level doesn’t matter in prevention of AMS.
AMS is body’s response to low oxygen pressure and the susceptibility is almost entirely determined by the genetic makeup of the individual. So take necessary precautions even though you think you are fit.
Once I’m acclimatised, am I protected from AMS for life?
No. Once you are back to lower altitudes, your body returns to normal. You are more likely to develop AMS in a much severe form the next time you are headed to high altitudes,. You need to be prepared and take all necessary precautions to prevent it.
All in all prevention is better than cure. Small steps taken ahead can prevent your dream trip from being ruined by Acute Mountain Sickness or its severe forms. While you are acclimatising in Leh, here are some things to do to keep yourself busy – https://bulletstrings.com/7-things-to-do-in-leh-while-you-are-acclimatizing/
Check out the video format of this post below. And while you are there, make sure you subscribe!
Symptoms of AMS can last till you get acclimatised which usually takes 24 – 48 hours or till you descend to a lower altitude.
Can Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) cause permanent damage?
Although people who’ve experienced AMS once are more likely to experience it again in a severe form, AMS do not cause any permanent damage if treated promptly.
What are the first signs of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)?
The first symptoms of AMS include breathlessness, headache, fatigue, dizziness, blurring of vision, nausea or abdominal cramps.
How can I prevent Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) naturally?
Spend 24-48 hours at the lowest point of your planned ascend to acclimatise. Do not ascend more than 4000 ft per day. Drink lots of water, eat healthy and sleep well.
The RE Himalayan in itself comes as a wholesome package equipped to handle any terrain it treads. There are a few modifications that you can do which can improve the whole riding experience.
I’ve experimented with a lot of mods and accessories. Here are a few must have accessories on the Himalayan along with a few less useful ones.
List
Very Useful / Must Have Accessories
HJG Aux Lamps
Knuckle Guards
Saddle Stay
Touring Handlebar
Tyre Hugger
KTM Rear View Mirror
HDT Customs Himalayan Crash Guard
Useful / Optional Accessories
Phone Holder with USB charger
Pro Spec windshield extender
Gear lever cover
Jerry can holder
Helmet locker
12V socket
Rear master cylinder guard, brake fluid guard and radiator guard
Pro Spec highway footrest
Rubber tank grips
Less Useful
Pro Spec EZ Cruz throttle lock
Pro Spec EZ Clutch
Studds top box
Very Useful / Must Have Accessories for the Himalayan
Aux lamps
The Himalayan halogen headlight doesn’t perform adequately well at open highways and in foggy conditions. Having a led fog lamp with good throw is a game changer when touring at night or in extreme weather conditions.
I use the HJG 9 led lamp which have a very bright floodlight throw and is a blessing at night.
RE knuckle guards themselves do a very good job in protecting your levers and your hands in case of a fall or hit. It also protects your fingers from blade grass or trees when you are cutting through vegetation.
There are plenty of after market options but they don’t offer anything magical which the stock ones do. Even if you don’t like the way it looks, keep it on!
Saddle stay
I personally prefer saddle bags over tail bags or panniers because for one, it can store more luggage and second, it leaves the rear seat free for the pillion.
There are plenty of aftermarket options which are cheaper and better than the stock one.
A taller and wider handlebar adds a ton to the comfort and riding stance especially while saddling. But keep in mind that touring handlebars can have a bit more vibration than the stock one but that isn’t a dealbreaker.
Few good options are the AOM handlebar or Motoioi handlebar for Himalayan.
Due to the long travel suspension, there’s considerable distance from the rear wheel and the mudguard. Often my pillion gets an artwork of slush on the back in rainy conditions.
The universal tyre hugger is a game changer. It even looks sexy on the Himalayan! Make sure to get one which doesn’t interfere with any parts around the rear wheel.
The stock mirrors are basically useless above 100 km/h as it vibrates a lot. Moreover it’s field of vision is very less.
KTM rear view mirrors are the best alternative. It’s sturdy, looks good and offers better field of vision.
HDT customs crash guard
The stock crash guard is one of the most softest piece of metal on the Himalayan. Some say a soft crash guard is better as it bents with the crash and thus preventing the impact from being transferred to the chassis.
This cost me 13000 INR in repairs after a off-road training camp. After a couple of falls, it becomes totally useless and my Himalayan sustained a bent t stem, fork, handlebar and so on.
I installed the HDT customs crash guard which is a lot sturdier and has a 3 point attachment. I suffered few falls in an off road trail in Chikmagalur and surprisingly it didn’t leave any impact on the soft handle bar.
One drawback to this crash guard is that the tilt angle is reduced due to the extended lower slider but that’s something worth trading for the good durability of the crash guard.
This is very useful for pre 2021 Himalayan owners and useful for owners who aren’t satisfied with the tripper navigation. Moreover if you are camping, you can charge power banks and other devices throughout the day while riding.
Buffeting is a major issue if you are over 5’8 and sometimes for shorter folks who ride very upright on long highway stretches. A windshield extender will reduce wind buffeting to a great extend and helps to reduce fatigue when riding at high speeds over long distances.
A downside to this is that it increases resistance which in turn reduced the top speed and mileage to a small extent. Mind you it cuts out all the wind and in hot weather, it makes you sweat a lot!
Jerry can is a necessity for any motorcycles above 350cc when travelling to regions like Ladakh. Having a jerry can holder installed on the side frame can be of help in carrying extra fuel or water when off grid camping.
Electric air pumps need 12v sockets to function and installing one under the seat can be beneficial when riding in remote areas.
Since I don’t have a good experience with electric pump, I use a manual foot pump but I still keep the socket in case of any emergency. You can charge any USB devices using a 12v to USB adapter too.
Rear master cylinder guard, brake fluid guard and radiator guard
My rear master cylinder guard has taken a beating during an off-road session and without the guard, I’m sure I’d have damaged the master cylinder and lost the rear brake. So get yourself installed all the guards and be safe.
When seated the leg position on the Himalayan is a little behind for my comfort as I’m used to the forward leg position on the Bullet. The highway foot pegs can be mounted on the crash guards.
It’s very sturdy and strong enough to support leg weight and provided huge relief in stretching your legs while riding long hours. Best part is that you don’t need to drill any hole on the crash guard which can affect its integrity.
Tank grips are great for folks taller than 5’8 as they’d more likely hug the tank directly while saddling. It prevents scratching of the tank by the riding pants.
For me, I tend to hug the side panel rather than the tank. Even then these grips have prevented further scratches to the fuel tank from the riding pants.
When I first heard about this product I was very thrilled to try it out as I’ve always been fascinated with cruise control. Throttle lock does the job well but it’s not as practical as it sounds.
You need to be super alert to disengage the lock when needed to and thus taking away the ‘relax’ purpose of cruise control. When you are in a hurry and want to take as minimum breaks as possible, throttle lock helps in relaxing your hands for a bit, provided you have an open highway with fewer vehicles.
EZ clutch cable assembly makes the clutch action very easy and smooth as comparable to a 100cc motorcycle. For me it never worked properly as the gear shifts became harder.
Even with all permutation and combination, clutch never used to disengage completely. If you can find a workaround, do comment below.
Top box is useful for the daily commuter to store rain gears and other things. Personally I hate the look of big top boxes as it looks similar to a pizza delivery motorcycle.
I have installed a Studds top box which is the smallest available in the market. I have placed this point in the not so useful section as it hinders in loading big luggage on the rear rack and makes some noise while off roading. It also reduces the rear seat real estate a bit.
I hope some of you might’ve found this list useful. If there’s any accessory that you think should make it into the list, DM so that I can test it myself. If you like to enjoy this list of must have accessories on the Himalayan in video format, check out the link below
Based on what purpose you are going to use the Himalayan for, the stock parts that can be replaced with better after market ones are handlebar, off-road centric tyres, crash guard and mirrors
How many years are Himalayan tires good for?
The stock CEAT tyres on the Himalayan lasts for less than 8000km on average on the rear and 25000km on the front.
What are the mandatory accessories on the Himalayan?
On a bare minimum, should have the crash guard, oil guards and the knuckle guards on the Himalayan.
Which is the best tyre for the Himalayan?
The MRF Mogrip Meteor would be the best tyre in terms of dual purpose and longevity. For more off road centric tyres, check out Ralco tyres.
Is top box good for the Himalayan?
Top boxes are good to carry luggage for daily commute as well as for touring, It offers protection from environmental factors.
20000 Km Ownership Review Of Royal Enfield Himalayan
I’ve had some of the best and the worst experiences of my life with the RE Himalayan. This is my ownership review of the RE Himalayan.
Why did I choose the Himalayan?
Ever since I started riding my father’s 2004 model Royal Enfield Bullet 350, l fascinated owning a cast iron engine Bullet someday. Soon after I moved to Bangalore for work, I bought my own 1975 model Royal Enfield Bullet. I clocked about 44000 kms on that motorcycle in less than 3 years.
A trip to Kemmangundi and Dabbaguli gave me an interest in exploring off road trails. The bullet was not quite efficient in tackling off road terrain although it did highways very well.
Around that time the government came up with green tax for vehicles more than 15 years old. There were rumours that the government was soon implementing the vehicle scrap policy, post which the resale value of bullets would crash.
So I sold my bullet at the same price I had bought it. Because of my newfound love for off-road, I started looking for options in the ADV segment. Considering my budget I was left with 2 options – X-pulse 200 and the Himalayan.
Since the X-Pulse was lot lighter than my bullet, I felt I wouldn’t get adjusted to it especially in touring. Only because of the weight factor, I decided to go with Himalayan after I test drove it on the highway. A decision I would forever regret because till date I struggle with Himalayan’s weight during off road trail riding.
I’ve had the most beautiful and the ugliest memories and experiences with this motorcycle. I’m happy to share all that so that you can make an informed decision if you are looking to buy one.
The Good
Ride comfort
From the soft seat cushions to the upright seating ergonomics, the ride comfort on the Himalayan on long hours of highway touring is the best. I did lower the handlebar height and attached a pair of footrest on the engine guard to aid me better. Folks taller than 5 6”, stock configuration works perfect.
The wind visor also provides decent wind blast protection so you can cover long distances with little fatigue. For someone taller than 5 10”, an extender would be required to reduce buffeting.
I have covered distances non stop for more than 2 hours on many occasions and haven’t experienced any back aches or limb soreness. And that’s why ride comfort goes on top of the list.
Saddling posture
The saddling posture on the Himalayan is the best compared to any major ADV motorcycles in the Indian market. The straight upright posture gives you a lot of confidence in riding off road trails as well on highways.
For taller guys, a taller aftermarket handlebar or the handlebar risers would make things a little easier. But for me, stock setting itself is perfect. More than the comfort, the top-of-the-world feel you get saddling with confidence, is a kick to live for.
Low end torque
As a beginner off-roader, the maximum pace you can tread over gravel terrains and slush patches would be less than 10 km/h around 2500 rpm. Most of the bikes I’ve ridden would require much of acceleration and clutch coordination to rev up the engine to get yourself some torque to tackle the terrain. This is where Himalayan truly shines.
The low end torque is so fantastic that you can just let go of the clutch and slowly tractor through sticky situations without needing to rev up the engine. The way it treads at lower rpms makes you feel that it was built only for this purpose which in turn lets you tread terrains with confidence and makes it fun too.
Suspension
Although not the softest in class, the suspension is very comfortable both on road and off road. I’ve attempted many jumps and tried to bottom out the suspension but it never did. Even with the lowest preload settings, it has never given any issue even with a pillion and saddle bags full of luggage.
Adding this to the seat comfort and riding posture makes the Himalayan very comfortable in riding long distances as well as off-road.
Luggage mounting
From the front frame to the rear mounting screws, Himalayan has a lot of luggage mounting options that’s got you covered for a long trip. All you might need are bags to put on the frame or even panniers for those who prefer hard casing.
Mileage
I’ve been getting around 28-30 kmpl in city riding and 30-32 kmpl on the highway which considering the fact that I top the motorcycle out at 120 kmph most of the time on the highway, is pretty decent.
The Bad
Weight
The one and only major confidence killer in Himalayan is its weight. For a 57kg guy like me, it’s an everyday struggle putting the motorcycle in central stand itself. 200 kg is a lot to pick up and balance especially in off road terrain.
You are bound to fall during off roading sessions but getting back up feels difficult than tackling the terrain. This makes you feel scared and less confident in attempting something which you’d otherwise be thrilled to do with a lighter motorcycle. Moral of the story – get a gym membership before buying the Himalayan!
Hard Clutch and Gear Shifts
Although many off road enthusiasts prefer hard clutch and hard gear shifts, I find the clutch and gear shift of the Himalayan very hard to a point where your left hand and feet will give up way faster than the rest of the body when riding through city traffic or off road terrain.
There are workarounds to this and I’ve tried many but it’s nowhere close to how easy it was on my 45 yr old bullet.
Less power
Himalayan was a major upgrade in terms of the top speed I could cruise on the highway compared to my bullet. But compared to the peers in the market, you’ll feel left out in terms of its mile munching capacity.
Himalayan tops out at 120 km/hr when cruising and engine feels very stressed after 110 km/hr. At speeds above 120 km/hr, the motorcycle gets very wobbly and unstable.
Tube tyres
Yes spokes wheels are durable than alloy but Himalayan should’ve come with tubeless tyres considering that it was made to venture into the wild. I suffered a great deal in Pang where one turn of the lock nut with the spanner to remove the back wheel left me gasping for breath at 15000 feet above sea level, all which could’ve been avoided if it were tubeless.
It’s a minimum 2 person job to remove the back wheel of the Himalayan which again goes against solo riders looking to explore the roads less traveled by. And for those asking about puncture proof liquids, no it doesn’t work in less than ideal conditions.
Engine heat
Given that Himalayan is not the best city commuter, for those riding the city traffic, the engine heat gets really uncomfortable in bumper to bumper traffic.
High Maintenance
I upgraded to a new motorcycle thinking I could get away with the high maintenance of a 1975 model bullet but surprisingly that was not the case. Himalayan has been a high maintenance motorcycle with minor issues popping up at least 3 or 4 times between the services like clutch issues, greasing issues and so on.
Major one being the very low life of the rear tyre. Not to mention the spare parts like the cables or levers are quite expensive. As an off road centric motorcycle, you are bound to take it to places outside your comfort zone. With that you will inevitably drop the motorcycle quite a lot of times.
Even though Himalayan is an ADV bike which should be able to absorb the shocks from minor falls, the handlebar, levers and the stock crash guard are made so soft they bend with a very small impact.
The Ugly
Service Centres
If you look into any forum or WhatsApp groups related to Himalayan you’ll be surprised to see a lot of hate and disappointment towards RE service centres. I’m a victim of it too. Most of the mechanics have absolutely no idea about any major issue regarding the motorcycle.
From one service centre to another, they tell different solution to one problem. And mind you, all of it on a trial basis where they tell it might work or not. Each time I have an issue they seem to do half a decent job on it and deliver the motorcycle with a new issue.
Believe it or not they even have asked me to ignore some critical engine noises which later have turned to be a major issue needing replacement of engine parts! And that’s why third party RE workshops thrive everywhere.
Manufacturing defects
During my first ever trip on my Himalayan, while returning to Bangalore from Trivandrum, the engine started making a noise and the bike slowed down till it stopped on its own. I called the RSA and they arranged a tow service for me but told me it’d take approx. 2 hours for them to reach me. Half hour later I started the bike and it was working properly. Not knowing what had happened I drove it till Bangalore.
In the next service I told them this issue. After days of evaluation, they told me the engine cover and some other parts need to be replaced. After a week of repairs, they delivered the bike and said they have replaced the defective parts under warranty. But the engine noise issue persisted. On the next trip, while returning from Kolar, I faced the same issue. This time service centre mechanics told me that they weren’t able to identify any issue.
Frustrated with their dealing, I gave my bike to the only company owned service centre in Bangalore at BTM Layout. They kept the bike for a week for detailed evaluation and told me that there’s manufacturing defect in the engine bore, cylinder and the piston. They replaced all parts under warranty but I still had to pay labour and consumable charges. Although the bike never stopped after that, the engine noise persists. The mechanics asked me to ignore the persisting noise!
Apart from these two major issues I faced lots of minor issues for which the ordeal of dealing with service centre officials was more taxing than the issue itself. I came to know that many folks who bought the bikes from 2016 to 2019 faced similar engine manufacturing defects. Many got their entire engines replaced and some even got their motorcycles replaced. So be on the lookout for issues like these when buying any RE motorcycle. Reliability is far from the equation for RE.
Delayed shipment of parts
Speaking of defective parts, the most common issue Himalayan owners face is fogging inside speedo console. RE promises replacement of the part under warranty but it’d take on an average minimum 6 to 10 months for them to send the replacement.
I got mine replaced after 10 months of complaint and the replacement console had the same issue just a week after replacement. I have given order for yet another replacement for which only God knows how long it’s going to take. I’ve heard stories where some owners had to keep their bikes in their garages without using for months because of delayed shipment of some critical parts.
Should You Buy The Himalayan? – Ownership Review Conclusion
Even though RE Himalayan is near to perfect in design and is good fun to ride anywhere and everywhere, the ownership really sucks all the joy you get from riding. You have to weigh a great deal of pros and cons in considering buying one since owning a motorcycle doesn’t just include riding it but the service quality, cost and maintenance.
RE majorly fails in the latter aspect of owning a motorcycle. If you’re willing to sacrifice free services and go to third party service centres for any major repair, Himalayan will be the best choice in class. If you are looking for ride comfort and fun off road riding experience, Himalayan is the best choice.
Although I don’t see myself keeping this motorcycle for another 3 or 4 years, I’m sure whatever experience I get from riding different terrains on the Himalayan will be worth cherishing for a lifetime. This has been my honest ownership review of the Himalayan.
If you like to check out the ownership review of the Himalayan video, go to the link below.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Is Royal Enfield Himalayan worth buying?
Royal Enfield Himalayan is worth buying for both off-roading and Indian highway touring.
The comfort level on the saddle, saddling ergonomics and the long stroke motor which gives plenty of low end torque makes Himalayan worth the buy.
Is Himalayan good for beginners?
The great low end torque of the long stroke motor makes the Himalayan a breeze to ride on off road terrain and in city commuting for beginners. Although the weight can be a bit intimidating for beginners, one will quickly adapt to it.
Is Himalayan costly to maintain?
Himalayan is a high maintenance motorcycle. Owing to the adventure nature that most riders use the motorcycle for, the wear and tear of parts is high. It calls for frequent replacement of parts and frequent visits to the service centre.
Is Royal Enfield Himalayan good for daily use?
The low end torque of the long stroke motor helps in city commute by lowering the need to change gears often. But the weight and engine heat makes it difficult to ride in bumper to bumper traffic.
Is Himalayan good for highway touring?
Himalayan is amazing as a highway tourer provided you don’t like to cruise above 110 kmph. The comfort on the saddle and the seating ergonomics makes highway touring for long hours a breeze on the Himalayan.
Is Himalayan heavy?
According to Royal Enfield, Himalayan weighs 199 kg dry. Add to that the weight of saddle stays, crash guards and other mods, it’ll weigh more than 210 kg. It can be a little intimidating for beginners at first.
Keeping your motorcycle well maintained can save you from frequent visits to the service center. Here are 7 essential motorcycle care products you need to keep your motorcycle in good shape.
WD 40
Motul C2
Black Spray Paint
Colin Glass Cleaner
3 Way Chain Brush
Toilet Brush / Sponge
Microfiber Towel
WD 40
Perhaps the most useful household item, WD 40 gives a range of options like keeping all the pivoting parts ( levers and foot pegs ) moving smoothly, cleaning the chain, keeping rust off exposed metal parts, lubing the cables and the list goes on. Rightfully so it takes the top position in essential motorcycle care products you need.
Himalayan needs chain cleaning and lubing every 500 kms if not more frequently if you are an avid off-roader. I use the Motul C2 chain lube and it does a decent job.
The paint job on Himalayan tends to come off especially on parts that come in contact with luggage and bungee hooks. Spray painting the exposed parts can prevent them from rusting and keep the area looking neat.
Even though it sounds gross, having a separate toilet brush for your Himalayan can be very useful in cleaning mud off tricky areas like the rear suspension, front fender, bash plate etc.
Using any cloth material other than a microfiber cloth can damage delicate paint job. Microfiber cloth will prevent unnecessary scratches on the visor as well.
Maintain your motorcycle well and it’ll serve the purpose for a longer time. There’s nothing better than the feel of riding a clean, well maintained and lubed motorcycle out on the open roads. If you like to see a detailed video on all these products, go checkout the link below.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What is the best thing to clean a motorcycle with?
A soft sponge with a mild automobile specific detergent and water are the best things to wash your motorcycle with. A microfiber cloth should be used to wipe it clean.
Can I use WD 40 on my motorcycle?
WD 40 is an excellent product which can be used on a motorcycle for a wide variety of purposes like chain cleaning, lubing pivoting parts and keeping off rust from exposed metal parts and cables.
Is it OK to power wash my motorcycle?
Pressure wash / power wash is effective in cleaning muck and slush after a heavy offroad session but comes with its own disadvantages. It can misplace exposed electrical circuits, damage delicate areas of the consoles and get water inside the coneset in case of Himalayan.
Therefore it’s recommended to wash your motorcycle by hand and if power wash is inevitable, cover all the delicate parts with plastic before the wash.
Can I use dish wash / soap on my motorcycle?
Any detergent / soap that’s specifically not made for automobiles can be detrimental to the paint job on your motorcycle and therefore it’s not safe to use dish wash on your motorcycle.
How to dry my motorcycle after washing it?
Wipe the motorcycle dry with a clean microfibre towel. You can use a low powered air jet to remove water from areas like electrical connections and consoles.
